Buy Bosch 1594K 6.5 Amp 3-1/4-Inch Planer KitBosch 1594K 6.5 Amp 3-1/4-Inch Planer Kit Product Description:
- 3-1/4-inch planer kit with 2-blade system, chip ejection switch, and ratcheting depth knob
- 6-1/2 amp motor delivers 16,500 rpm; easy-to-adjust bevel fence; spring-loaded park rest stand
- Durable micrograin carbide blades
- Includes planer, bevel guide fence, blade wrench, chip bag, and case
- 11-1/8-inch shoe length; 6 pounds; 1-year warranty
Product Description
Includes 3-1/4-in Planer - 1594K, (2) Woodrazor Blades - PA1202, Bevel Guide Fence - 2 607 001 077, Blade Wrench - 1 907 950 025, Chip Bag - 2 605 411 035, Carrying Case - 2 609 100 187
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
183 of 188 people found the following review helpful.
One Heckuva Tool
By A Customer
Bought this planer the other day to do some doors. It was all I expected and more. Very strong motor - never even appeared to bog down. Good balance. Depth control is very easy to use and accurate. I actually own a Dewalt and a Makita. I bought the Bosch for the features (i.e. the fully adjustable fence, the adjustable chip deflector that actually comes with a WORKABLE shop vac adapter - THAT is great!) and the reputation. I have not been disapointed. The Bosch is the best of the three. Until I got the Bosch I was pretty well satisfied with the Makita with the Dewalt pulling up the rear, but the Bosch is the best of the three by far. Strongest motor, Woodrazor carbide blades, shop vac adapter, and that great fence. You will use the fence. It can be set at 90 degrees or any other angle you want - and there is an adjustagble rabbeting stop that basically lets you take it about as deep and wide as you want. By the way, USE a shop vac with this. It will fill up your shop with shavings in a heartbeat - but with a vac hooked up, not a one hit the floor. Overall, this is a super tool at a very reasonable price. Oh yeah, it's also relative quiet. This one's a keeper.
86 of 86 people found the following review helpful.Excellent Power Planer, Review plus some tips...
By G. Conner
Typically, I use a power planer for installing doors, surfacing boards that are too large for a stationary planer and sometimes for removing finishes. This tool excels at all of those tasks.Bosch blades are the best I have found. Blade-change is easy and fast with no alignment problems.While considering a new planer, I also tried the Festool planers. There are three advantages to the Festool planers:1- Slightly better dust collection. I have to give this to Festool... They always consider dust-collection in their designs.2- Micro adjustment of cutting-depth.3- The ability to cut rabbets.The dust collection advantage was too small to justify the grossly higher price. This Bosch tool adapts to my cheap shop-vac and removes dust 95% as well as the Festool.I do not need the super-precise depth-of-cut feature because I use tape shims on the front sole of this planer. That is fast, secure, cheap and often more accurate than mechanical-adjustments.Although the ability to cut rabbets is nifty, I always do that with a router or a hand-plane.So, none of those features was enough to justify the MUCH higher expense of Festool planers.After reading other reviews I must respond to two negative comments.One reviewer pointed out that the fence leaves something to be desired. I agree, this fence is not perfect. But I have never used these types of fences "as-is." All the professionals I know attach a wood or MDF face to these types of fences, to prevent marring the work. Then we shim the face with tape for a nearly perfect 90-degrees: + / - .001". That is plenty accurate enough, even for fine cabinet-work. It is more reliable and secure than any mechanical adjustment mechanism.Another reviewer claimed his planer had misaligned sole-plates so that it made concave cuts....That is impossible.Concave-cutting can only be caused by improper technique.It IS a bit tricky to use power planers at first. They do NOT operate on the same principle as hand-planes. The front sole is elevated above the rear sole. So you must start the cut with the front sole registered to the work, then immediately place the weight on the rear sole so that the cutter-head and blade register to the freshly-flattened surface. (Like a jointer, only upside-down and backwards.)So it is easy to understand how a neophyte who does not understand the tool might make that mistake. A long time ago, I made the same mistake and ruined an expensive door.Holding the tool with the weight on the front sole will ALWAYS cause gouging, even with a "perfect" planer.When neophytes blame the tool for their misunderstanding, I feel obligated to help others learn and make an informed decision. Please do not assume I am "haughty" or a "know-it-all" for pointing this out. As admitted, I too made this mistake the first time I used a power planer.Over three years of owning it and countless successful projects, I have been very satisfied with this Bosch planer.It cuts well, and with a sound understanding and good technique, it cuts just as well as the more expensive Festool.It is smooth, vibration-free and makes precision-surfacing a dream.Props to Festool for great dust-control, rabbeting feature, micro-adjustment and generally great engineering. I admire Festool, and if price were no object, I'd buy one of every product they make.For this practical old-pro, the Bosch planer is a much better deal.
207 of 226 people found the following review helpful.Help for those researching 3.25" hand power planers
By Ernest Bullock
I'm a general contractor, generally working on remodels or refurbishments. Recently I decided to purchase my first hand power planer. I will be using the machine for stud straightening, deck trimming, door/doorway adjustment, cabinet scribing, subfloor leveling ... and whatever else comes up. All-around functionality is my #1 criteria; expense is secondary, but important.There are several different types of planers, as you will find out when you Google "planer". A "thickness planer" is used on boards to shape them into a uniform thickness. A "door planer" or "edge planer" is the kind we are talking about here. Searching on "planer" will bring up lots of false leads: authors, books, celebrities, floor-model tools, etc.. While most specific, "door planer" or "power hand planer" don't produce a whole lot of hits (other than advertisements).After about 6 hours of on-line research as well as a review of JLC's July 2005 issue I've discovered many currently available models. They are, in alphabetical order:Black & Decker 7696 - low-end stuff made by Dewalt... I skipped.Bosch 1594K (planer and case/kit)Bosch 3365 (a "stripped down" 1594 without carry case or fence)Delta - noneDewalt DW680K (planer & case/kit)Festool HL850E (planer & case/kit)Hitachi F30A (no longer sold)Hitachi P20SBK (planer & case/kit)Jet - noneMakita N1900B (planer & case/kit)Makita N1902X7 (planer, no case - alot like N1900B)Milwaulkee - nonePorter-Cable 9125 (planer, case/kit)Porter-Cable 9118 (planer, case/kit)-- older, well reguardedRyobi L1121 (not much info...no longer sold?)Ryobi HPL51K (planer, case/kit)Of these units, the Bosch 1954, Porter-Cable 9118 (possibly 9125), and Festool HL850E seem to be best reguarded by professionals with the Mikita and Dewalt next. But I would say each of these models above have their fans.The Bosch 0125, Festool HL850E, and Ryobi HPL51K have the capability to expel sawdust to one side or the other, a much-liked new feature.The Porter-Cable 9118 cannot plane flat surfaces like floors (all the others can).The Hitachi, Makita, Porter-Cable 9118 models have no dust bag or vacuum sawdust pickup capability at all.A long base and a rear handle close to the back end make control easier. Bad control leads to snipe (gouging at start and end of runs). The Festool did the best here, but the (otherwise well liked) Bosch 1594 did poorly.For me, I've narrowed the field to either the Festool HL850E or the Bosch 1594.
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